🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.